Here is my post of "stuff I think everyone should read/look at":
First, here is a narrative blog from Middlebury College that i stumbled upon... they did a series called "how did you get here" that kind of reminds me of our final photo journalism project. It's cool to see that other students are doing similar things:
https://sites.middlebury.edu/middblogs/tag/fellows-in-narrative-journalism/
Also, I really love Graphic Novels and wanted to see how people think that they fit into this genre of story telling and narrative (more personal narrative). But I think there is a real art to being able to write and illustrate these well and effectively. This is a cool NPR program that I stumbled upon that featured a book and then highlighted some of the narratives from within it, so it had some succinct(er) examples of narratives through pictures. I didn't have a ton of time to browse, but go for it!
http://www.npr.org/blogs/monkeysee/2013/04/11/176568118/cook-illustrated-a-new-graphic-novel-that-live-to-eat-types-will-savor
I kind of had trouble finding cool things... I don't really have a cyber-realm of journalism that I browse regularly, but hopefully these will be fun to look at.
See ya tomorrow!
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Life, Liberty, and the Prosciutto of Happiness: Making it in the Michigan Restaurant Business FINAL
Nationally
acclaimed practitioner of Charcuterie (char coot er ee), restaurant owner,
author, and teacher, Brian Polcyn, stands at a table in front of a small cooking
class at Kalamazoo College in Michigan. He raises a spoonful of risotto to his
mouth, slurps a small taste and rolls his eyes back in his head. His face
melting, he tosses the spoon on the counter and steps back with his hands in
the air saying “I don’t know how I do it.”
A few weeks
later, I stood with him in front of his classroom at Schoolcraft College in
Livonia, Michigan, sampling and critiquing the work of his students, and he
told me about how he became Chef Polcyn.
“Next!”
His gruff low
voice booms from the gut of his meat belly out over the classroom of culinary
arts students in the unmistakable accent of a Detroit native. Students come up
periodically to present their work. He cuts off a piece of sausage and hastily
puts it in his mouth, tossing the hot meat roughly with each chewing motion.
Meanwhile students
slide around the kitchen, turning sideways to fit through small spaces, and
lifting raw meat concoctions overhead to avoid colliding with one another. The
classroom smells of salt and cured meats, slabs of raw cuts laying all over the
place, being dressed and stuffed and flavored by the students: chicken breasts,
jerky, fish, pork chops and sausages of cow and pig piled in coils, or in long
strings draped over pieces of equipment. There was nowhere I could stand and
feel like I wasn’t in the way. In an environment where it was easy to feel like
a burden, Chef Polcyn made me feel like a guest, including me in the
chaos that was culinary school finals week.
Student Brian
lands a smoked trout on the altar of critiquing.
“Smoked fish?
Ok, watch this, she’s going to grade you. Whatever she says goes, and do not
be nice. I want you to ask yourself, is it pleasant to eat, first and
foremost?”
It was.
“Ok, is it too
salty?”
No, it wasn’t.
“Is it moist?”
Ehhh it was a
little dry.
“Ok, so here’s
someone who doesn’t know a lot about food, but this is our customer, right? So
we have to listen to her. So for a score of 1 out of 25 what would you give
him?”
I gave him a 24,
but Polcyn is cheeky.
“If I liked him
I would do 24, but I don’t like him, so I’m gonna go 23.9.”
When he’s not
grading, Polcyn barks his way around the kitchen, critiquing sanitation
practices, fixing broken equipment, and cutting cured meats for sampling from
the transformation room, where salted meats have been hanging, aging for years.
“I’m taking you
in my transitional room where I take no one. Not even my students," he says, "They’re all
like ‘Who is this girl?’”
At first, it
looked like a bunch of dry, hanging, moldy ham. But this is Charcuterie. Charcuterie is the art of
curing and preserving meat without cooking it.
Polcyn speaks of
Charcuterie as common sense. Refrigeration has only been around for about
100 years, but people have been eating meat forever. Polcyn doesn’t just
worship meat, but also the fat, which Polcyn learned in Italy, is where the flavor truly
lies. He has the fat-o-phobics chanting “Fat is flavor, Fat is our friend, We
love fat!”
In a review in the Atlantic monthly magazine, Food critic
Corby Kummer wrote:
“Polcyn knows how to get
true flavors. His forte is meat, appropriately enough in the Midwest. The pork
and the duck were the best I've had in years—anywhere, even in southwestern
France, where every house is a farm and every farm fattens a few ducks.
Specifically, Polcyn's forte is charcuterie, the art of sausage-making. Every
day a different pâté or terrine is offered, and the peppery duck pâté I tasted
was a tour de force… Even better, both meats, with their full marbling of fat,
tasted the way they used to, before Long Island ducklings were raised in
quarters closer than a Manhattan apartment and Iowa hogs were bred to be slim.”
How does this
carnivore reconcile the vegetarianism of so many of his customers?
“I don’t have a
problem with it… I don’t see the importance of it," he says, "I mean you need a certain
amount of fat in your diet, and I think animal fat is the best.”
He recognizes
vegetarianism as an important value to some of his customers, using some of the
methods with vegetables. For example, a terrine is typically a meatloaf style
casserole wrapped in additional meat such as bacon but can be made with
vegetables.
“I adapt the
principle of the ancient craft of Charcuterie and apply it to the modern
American menu. In my mind, I’m honoring the tradition, but I’m also thinking
about the contemporary palate of my customers. Yeah, I know it sucks. It’s an
oxymoron. It’s like saying jumbo shrimp… vegetable terrine,” he says.
Ironically, he
shares his office with a vegan, and they seem to have agreed to disagree.
His space-mate
made two good cases for veganism: most illnesses stem from meat consumption,
doctors advising their patients to stop eating meat, so why wait until you get
to that?
Polcyn has an
ego, but he knows a good argument.
“He makes a good
point. I hate it when he’s right.”
The second
reason being the land used to feed animals could feed people instead.
“Oh shit, I hate
it when he’s right.”
Co-author of Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking,
and Curing, Michael Ruhlman, wrote about a conversation he had with Polcyn told him about the beginning of his love for Charcuterie:
“My Polish
Grandma, my father's mother, made Kielbasa every Christmas and Easter. Then my
mom took over the job. We didn’t have any money so everything we used and used
well. We’d grind the meat and season it. The next day we’d stuff it, tie it
into big rings, hang the rings over a broom handle on chairs, put the dog out,
and set the kielbasa in front of the fire overnight.
“But this
romance with Charcuterie didn’t start until my early twenties, when I went to
work at the Golden Mushroom, outside Detroit, for Milos Cihelka, a Czech
immigrant, my mentor and one of Michigan’s great Chefs. I’d been cooking for
five or six years and thought I knew something. But when I started grinding
meat and smoking sausages for Chef Milos, I realized how little I knew. I was
also fascinated by the process. I got to work early and left late. I took notes
like crazy.”
Now Polcyn has
an army of his own students learning from him. He describes the culinary world
of apprenticeship as a responsibility to teach the next generation everything
he knows.
“I expect my
students to go out and teach the same, just like I do.”
Even though
Charcuterie is a required class for a culinary degree at Schoolcraft, the students enjoy Polcyn.
“He makes it so
much fun,” said student Joline, a middle aged DJ on the radio, who really hates
meat, but is taking the class to graduate.
Polcyn returned
to teach at his Alma Mater after opening and closing two restaurants, and
opening a third which he still owns: Forest Grill in Birmingham, MI. His
other restaurants included Five Lakes Grill in Milford, which he turned
into Cinco Lagos, a Mexican restaurant, when Five Lakes was starting to fail.
But he sees these openings and closings as normal fluctuations in the restaurant
business that have contributed to his success.
Not only has
Polcyn succeeded in one of the toughest professions, he has
done it all in the state of Michigan, independent of cities with established
taste and demand for his skills.
His son, Dylan, a
student at Kalamazoo College, was equally charismatic and vibrant, eager to
talk about his Dad. Dylan attested that if his Dad had hauled the kids out to
New York or Chicago, he would be a star on the food network right now. But instead he prioritized the values that distinguished Polcyn from other chefs and the
sacrifices he has made throughout his life for his family.
Though he
attempted to cut back on complexity of menu items in order to have more time
with his family, his restaurant gained credentials that ultimately
had him written up in the New York Times and Atlantic Monthly, as well as nominated for a
James Beard Award and Restaurant of the Year in Michigan, all of which showcased his talent
amid his natural and feasible habitat.
“I got
nationally recognized as a chef in that little community where I could raise my
family and just be open for dinner. I could go coach soccer practice at four
o’clock and be back at the restaurant for dinner service because it was only
five minutes away. I’m a very successful business man, very successful chef,
Nationally acclaimed, financially stable, I make a lot of money for being a
cook. That’s not bragging, that’s fact.”
Polcyn’s
accomplishments are a testament to his skill and acclaim he has built in the
field, all while being a father.
“For me, being a
chef and married to the same woman for over 30 years, and raising five
children, in this profession is more of a challenge than cooking in Michigan
because the business that I’ve chosen is very demanding. What time of day do
people eat dinner? Oh, in the evening… so what time of day do I work normally?
Oh, yeah… see, I work when everyone else plays.”
Dylan is
impressed with his father’s dedication to their family. “Every Chef is
divorced. I mean every chef. The fact
that they’ve made it for so long is crazy,” he says of his parents. Dylan also recalled the absence of
his father through the childhoods of his older siblings during the closing of
Five Lakes and Cinco Lagos. They had a weekly ritual of watching Saturday Night
Live and making grilled cheese at midnight, because that was the only time he
was home. Once he opened Forest Grill, though, he was able to spend more time
with his two younger kids.
Chef Polcyn
packed up some sausage, corned beef and desserts from the pastry class for me to
take home. A week later Dylan and I cooked up the sausages for dinner,
consulting his dad over the phone about how exactly to cook them, and hoping
that his new line of pre-packaged meats and meals would make it onto our campus
someday.
As we sat down
to eat, in honor of Chef Polcyn and of the meat we were eating, Dylan and I shared a Chef
Polcyn-ism: “Praise the Lard!”
Word Count: 1927
Intended
Publication: New York Times Diner’s Journal
The Events of October
This is such an incredibly well-written story. And the amount of information, testimonials, details, stories and perspectives that are so artfully woven together is unbelievable. I feel as though there is nothing missing from this story: everything we might want to know about the characters, their backgrounds, characterization from their friends, family, details as vivid as Maggie leaving her book open on her bed, and never coming back, it's all here. What a process that must have been! I can't wait to talk to the author about what it was like to collect all of the pieces that put this story together. Not only that, but I feel it was a hard one to write given the event, and how she dealt with sensitivity surrounding that. There must have been a certain amount of time that had to pass before she felt comfortable interviewing people and asking them to uncover their memories. Even though no one was in the room with Maggie and Neenef, we get everything else. And it makes it such a vivid, real, and tribute-ive story.
Additionally, how did the author hope the story to function an closure for the event or at all? It is so difficult to reconcile something like this and understand its place in the college community. I think the story could have functioned as a sort of closure and memory of it all which is a very brave thing to write. Finally, for whom did the author intend this story and how was she sensitive to that while writing? Though I think this story is valuable to non Kalamazoo College community members, it certainly strikes more of a chord with people who know the buildings, the professors and the inter workings of the campus. How did the author deal with this if at all? How did she think about ways it could be for the students? For the families? The story certainly helps reader to understand why it happened, which is an important narrative to take away from an event like this. Would the community have received that "why" otherwise?
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Reading Response Week 7
The segment on dialogue was really helpful both in validating
the use of lots of dialogue, and using large chunks of it, and also in helping
to decide when to use it and when it can be most effective. For example,
dialogue as the “punch line of a joke” or the most explicit way we can convey
the subject’s life or story was helpful in thinking about the strategies with
which it is worked in really enhance the story. Like Marin said, we are not
telling the subject’s story from our perspectives or what we have heard, we are
telling it from the perspective of the narrator and people who know the
narrator, so quoting IS really important.
I think coming up with an ending is something that I’m
struggling the most with, so it was nice to hear some strategies such as
“bringing the story full circle”. It was also helpful to understand the
importance of an ending, because part of me thought maybe no one would notice
if it just dropped off… so that’s something I am continuing to work on in
revision.
I also feel I am clos(er) to conveying strong character and
scene through thoroughly describing exactly what I experienced, and building
character from a climactic moment (when we is tasting the work of his students)
and then explaining how he got there. This is such a cool process for building
character, and I hope I am somewhat accomplishing it.
Finally, reading about voice really helped to synthesize the
point of these assignments for me and understand that even though I am trying
to capture little details of this character and this story, ultimately the
writing does have to fall into my own voice. Sometimes when writing about very
distinct characters I feel pressure to recreate or deliver their personality
through my own writing, but instead, the writer strives to do this by capturing
them in their own writing style. That is important to remember.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Story Pitch
5 words
Apple Blossom Cluster Dog Show
Who came up with that?
I want to know... so I'm thinking of going next weekend at the Kalamazoo County Expo Fairgrounds to observe, talk to people, and just see what the heck this probably ridiculous event is all about.
Interested?
Apple Blossom Cluster Dog Show
Who came up with that?
I want to know... so I'm thinking of going next weekend at the Kalamazoo County Expo Fairgrounds to observe, talk to people, and just see what the heck this probably ridiculous event is all about.
Interested?
Questions for Draft 2
This draft is still not these but it is close*er*. I just have so much to write about and I'm having trouble weaving...
Can people please comment on the lead? I also don't really have an ending anymore, because I don't really know where the story is going from there. I dropped in more "in the moment" stuff, and now its just so long. Thanks everyone.
Can people please comment on the lead? I also don't really have an ending anymore, because I don't really know where the story is going from there. I dropped in more "in the moment" stuff, and now its just so long. Thanks everyone.
Life, Liberty, and the Prociutto of Happiness: Making it in the Restaurant Business Draft 2
“Next!” Nationally acclaimed practitioner of Charcuterie,
restaurant owner, author, and teacher, Brian Polcyn, stands at a table in the
front of his classroom at Schoolcraft College sampling and critiquing the work
of his students.
His gruff low voice booms from the gut of his meat
belly out over the classroom of culinary arts students in the unmistakable
accent of a Detroit native. Students come up periodically to present their
work. He cuts off a piece of sausage and hastily puts it in his mouth, tossing
the hot meat roughly with each chewing motion.
Meanwhile three of his students hold down the
sausage stuffing machine, between panic and triumph. Other students slide
around the kitchen, turning sideways to fit through small spaces, and lifting
raw meat concoctions overhead as they avoid colliding with one another. There
are 18 stainless steel prep areas in the middle of the room, surrounded by
stoves, ovens, large walk-in fridges and sinks. The classroom smells of salt
and cured meats, slabs of raw cuts laying all over the place, being dressed and
stuffed and flavored by the students: sausages of cow and pig, jerky, fish,
pork chops, and stuffed chicken breasts, but mostly sausages, piled in coils,
or in long strings draped over pieces of equipment. There was nowhere I could
stand and feel like I wasn’t in the way. In an environment where it was easy to
feel like a burden, Chef Polcyn really made me feel like a guest.
Student Brian lands a smoked trout on the altar of
critiquing.
“Smoked fish? Ok, watch this, she’s going to grade
you. Whatever she says goes, and do not be nice.”
“I want you to ask yourself, is it pleasant to
east, first and foremost?”
It was.
“Ok, is it too salty?”
No, it wasn’t.
“Is it moist?”
Ehhh it was a little dry.
“Ok, so here’s someone who doesn’t know a lot about
food, but this is our customer, right? So we have to listen to her. So for a
score of 1 out of 25 what would you give him?”
I gave him a 24, but Polcyn is cheeky.
“If I liked him I would do 24, but I don’t like
him, so I’m gonna go 23.9.”
When he’s not grading, Polcyn barks his way around
the kitchen, critiquing sanitation practices, fixing broken equipment, and
cutting cured meats for sampling from the transformation room, where salted
meats have been hanging, aging for years.
He was nice enough to take me in there, apparently
a huge honor, “I’m taking you in my transitional room where I take no one. Not
even my students. They’re all like ‘Who is this girl?’”
The transformation room was like a stainless steel
version of a smokehouse from Little House on the Prarie. To the average person,
it looks like a bunch of hanging, moldy ham. But this is Charcuterie. Charcuterie is the art of curing and preserving meat
without cooking it.
Polcyn speaks of Charcuterie as common sense. The
refrigerator has only been around for about 100 years, but people have been
eating meat forever. Polcyn doesn’t just worship meat, but the fat, Polcyn
learned in Italy, is where the flavor truly lies. He always has the
fat-a-phobics chant “Fat is flavor, Fat is our friend, We love fat!” or tells
them to “Praise the lard!”
But how does this carnivore reconcile the
vegetarianism of so many of his customers?
“I don’t have a problem with it… I don’t see the
importance of it, I mean you need a certain amount of fat in your diet, and I
think animal fat is the best”.
Ironically, he shares his office with a vegan, and
they seem to have agreed to disagree.
His space-mate made two good cases for veganism:
most illnesses stem from meat consumption, doctors advising their patients to
stop eating meat, so why wait until you get to that?
“He makes a good point. I hate it when he’s right”
The second reason being the land used to feed
animals could feed people instead.
“Oh shit, I hate it when he’s right”.
He recognizes vegetarianism as an important value
to some of his customers, taking methods of cooking meats and making them with
vegetables. A terrine is typically a meatloaf style casserole wrapped in
additional meat such as bacon
“I adapt the principle of the ancient craft of
Charcuterie and apply it to the modern American menu. In my mind, I’m honoring
the tradition, but I’m also thinking about the contemporary palate of my
customers. Yeah, I know it sucks. It’s an oxymoron. It’s like saying jumbo
shrimp… vegetable terrine”.
Co-author of Charcuterie:
The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing, Michael Ruhlman, wrote about a
conversation he had with Polcyn about the beginning of his love for Charcuterie:
“My Polish Grandma, my fathers mother, made
Kielbasa every Christmas and Easter. Then my mom took over the job. We didn’t
have any money so everything we used and used well. We’d grind the meat and season
it. The next day we’d stuff it, tie it into big rings, hang the rings over a
broom handle on chairs, put the dog out, and set the kielbasa in front of the
fire overnight.
“But this romance with Charcuterie didn’t start
until my early twenties, when I went to work at the golden mushroom, outside
Detroit, for Milos Cihelka, a Czech immigrant, my mentor and one of Michigan’s
great Chefs. I’d been cooking for five or six years and thought I knew
something. But when I started grinding meat and smoking sausages for Chef
Milos, I realized how little I knew. I was also fascinated by the process. I
got to work early and left late. I took notes like crazy.”
Now Polcyn has an army of his own students learning
from him. Polcyn describes the culinary world of apprenticeship as a
responsibility to teach the next generation everything he knows.
“I expect my students to go out and teach the same,
just like I do”.
He pokes at his students, and they poke right back.
There’s a lot of sassiness in the classroom of Brian Polcyn, but mostly there’s
respect.
Even though Charcuterie is a required class for a
culinary degree at Schoolcraft, all of the students enjoy the class. “He makes
it so much fun” said student Joline, a middle aged DJ on the radio, looking to
do some catering work once she graduates.
Polcyn returned to teach at his Alma Mater after
writing his book, and opening and closing two restaurants, and opening a third
which is still owns: Forest Grill in Birmingham. His other restaurants include
Five Lakes Grill in Milford, MI, which he turned into Cinco Lagos, a Mexican
restaurant when Five Lakes was starting to fail. But he sees these opens and
closes as normal fluctuations in the restaurant business, that have all
amounted to his success
Not only has Polcyn become Nationally acclaimed in
one of the toughest professions, he has done it all in the state of Michigan,
independent of cities with established taste and demand for his skills. Though
he attempted to cut back on complexity of menu items in order to have more time
with his family, the demand in the restaurant grew to credentials that
ultimately had him written up in the New York Times, Atlantic Monthly,
nominated for a James Beard Award, Restaurant of the Year in Michigan,
showcasing his talent amidst his natural and feasible habitat: “I got
nationally recognized as a chef in that little community where I could raise my
family and just be open for dinner. I could go coach soccer practice at four o’clock
and be back at the restaurant for dinner service because it was only five
minutes away. I’m a very successful business man, very successful chef,
Nationally acclaimed, financially stable, I make a lot of money for being a
cook. That’s not bragging, that’s fact”.
Polcyn’s accomplishments are a testament to his
skill and acclaim he has built in the field, all while being a father.
Son Dylan attests that if his Dad had hauled the
kids out to New York or Chicago, he would be a star on the food network right
now. Why not? Because of the values that distinguished Polcyn from other chefs
and the sacrifices he has made throughout his life for his family.
“For me, being a chef and married to the same woman
for over 30 years, and raising five children, in this profession is more of a
challenge than cooking in Michigan because the business that I’ve chosen is
very demanding. What time of day do people eat dinner? Oh, in the evening… so
what time of day do I work normally? Oh, yeah… see, I work when everyone else
plays”.
Dylan is equally charismatic and vibrant, eager to
talk about his Dad: “Every Chef is divorced. I mean every chef. The fact that they’ve made it for so long is crazy.”
Dylan also recalled the absence of his father through the childhoods of his
older siblings father through his childhood than his two older siblings who had
a weekly ritual of watching Saturday Night Live and making grilled cheese at
midnight, because that was the only time he was home.
His co-author also wrote that this craziness is not
uncommon for a chef:
“It’s in the nature of the chef to accept with
cheerful willingness a workload that is completely impossible. It’s a matter of
pride and personal challenge, even taking on a third job when too full time
jobs are really already just a little too much. And a chef does this not
wineingly or with a sigh, but rather with a breezy immediate response: sure.”
Monday, May 6, 2013
Profile Process
This piece was way harder for me to write than I thought. i felt like we did so much good build up reading, like I had all of my strategies down, but when it actually came down to it I couldn't project any of that theory onto my writing. First of all, I don't really know what story i'm trying to tell here... I want to tell all of it, but I'm starting to see that maybe there are some sub-stries in here I could zoom in on. But I go back and forth, because I feel like the point of the assignment is to write about oval themes and subjects in their life. I also felt like I relied on quotes SO much. Probably too much. He just said things so nicely. Is it too much?
I also wrote with a little bit of perpetual fear. He is such a sharp, knowledgeable, witty, and accomplished person I feared not capturing him properly, so that's probably why I relied so much on the ways he captured himself. I am also working on getting some other sources in here (writing that other people have done about him) but I had some logistical issues with that and couldn't get the book in time. My apologies. Basically, I know this piece could be loads better, but I don't know how to go out it. Mehhhh
I also wrote with a little bit of perpetual fear. He is such a sharp, knowledgeable, witty, and accomplished person I feared not capturing him properly, so that's probably why I relied so much on the ways he captured himself. I am also working on getting some other sources in here (writing that other people have done about him) but I had some logistical issues with that and couldn't get the book in time. My apologies. Basically, I know this piece could be loads better, but I don't know how to go out it. Mehhhh
Life, Liberty and the Prociutto of Happiness: Spreading the Good Word of Charcuterie and Making it in the Restaurant Business
Nationally acclaimed practitioner of charcuterie, Brian
Polcyn shuffles into class, Starbucks in hand and a large black bag slung over his
shoulder, sporting black leather motorcycle jacket. His deep scratchy voice
speaks with an unmistakable Michigan accent: a Detroit native. Just as class it
about to start, he emerges from his office with his button up white chef coat
stretched across his meat belly, and tall white hat, propping himself on a
stool to take attendance.
“Good morning, boys and girls”. His students gather around
his all dressed in the same Chef getup, hands behind their backs, answering “Here,
Chef” when he calls each name. The students are in the middle of their one week
practical exam at Schoolcraft College in the Charcuterie class: the ancient art
of curing meats. Each student will prepare a number of meat dishes to be graded
and critiqued by Nationally acclaimed author, chef, and of course teacher Brian
Polcyn.
Polcyn worked his way up the “totalitarian brigade” of
culinary training in his early kitchen years remarkably fast, attributing much
of his success to his instructor, Chef Milos. Polcyn describes the culinary world
of apprenticeship as a responsibility to teach the next generation everything
you know. It was unforgiving and tough to be trained in the culinary profession
during this time, and very few people made it.
“I expect my students to go out and teach the same, just
like I do”.
The students go about their business and Polcyn barks his
way around the kitchen, critiquing sanitation practices, fixing broken
equipment, and cutting cured meats for sampling from the transitional room,
where salted meats have been hanging, aging for years.
Polcyn speaks of Charcuterie as common sense.
“When was the refrigerator invented?” Early 1900s.
“And How long have people been eating meat?” Forever.
Charcuterie is the art of curing and preserving meat without
cooking it. The meat gets dried and brines in salt and then hung to dry in the
transformation room.
Polcyn doesn’t just worship meat, but the fat, Polcyn
learned in Italy, is where the flavor truly lies. Polcyn’s sausages and salami
are speckled, with fat distributed throughout bringing out rich, creamy
flavors. The copa muscle on the neck of the animal holds unique flavor because
of the nature of the tendons infused throughout the meat.
“The world would be a terrible place without fat”.
How does this carnivore reconcile the vegetarianism of so
many of his customers?
“I don’t have a problem with it… I don’t see the importance
of it, I mean you need a certain amount of fat in your diet, and I think animal
fat is the best”.
Actually, he shares his office with a vegan, and they
generally agree to disagree.
His space-mate made two good cases for veganism: most
illnesses stem from meat consumption, doctors advising their patients to stop
eating meat, so why wait until you get to that?
“He makes a good point. I hate it when he’s right”
The second reason being the land used to feed animals could
feed people instead.
“Oh shit, I hate
it when he’s right”.
He recognizes vegetarianism as an important value to some of
his customers, taking methods of cooking meats and making them with vegetables.
A terrine is typically a meatloaf style casserole wrapped in additional meat
such as bacon
“I adapt the principle of the ancient craft of Charcuterie
and apply it to the modern American menu. So I’m going to make a roasted
vegetable terrine. In my mind, I’m honoring the tradition, but I’m also
thinking about the contemporary palate of my customers. Yeah, I know it sucks.
It’s an oxymoron. It’s like saying jumbo shrimp… vegetable terrine”.
Polcyn settled onto his stool at the front of the classroom
and began sampling his student’s exam dishes.
“Smoked fish? Ok, watch this, she’s going to grade you.
Whatever she says goes, and do not be
nice”.
“I want you to ask yourself, is it pleasant to east, first
and foremost?”
Yes.
“Ok, is it too salty?”
No.
“Is it moist?” Ehhh it was a little dry.
“Ok, so here’s someone who doesn’t know a lot about food,
but this is our customer, right? So we have to listen to her. So for a score of
1 out of 25 what would you give him?”
He got a 24, but Polcyn is cheeky.
“If I liked him I would do 24, but I don’t like him, so I’m
gonna go 23.9”.
“Another thing I learned is to buy local, which, I have been
doing that my entire career: going to farmers markets and developing
relationships with small farmers. And, here’s the big secret… today there’s so
many buzzwords about ‘gate to the plate’, ‘but local’, or ‘organic’ blah blah
blah blah blah. Is there any other type of food? My entire career I’ve never
known any other type of food besides organic”.
Buying local for Polcyn isn’t just about supporting the
family farm, it’s about getting the best quality product for the lowest price.
In fact, while many critics are unable to equate expensive food with high value
or quality, Polcyn plans to change the way we eat through his use of
ingredients and education of customers surrounding the importance of the food,
by “creating a demand”.
“I’m going to impact the way people eat in America. My
Charcuterie book has sold 130,000 copies, I’m traveling around teaching
classes, I make 1 trip a month, spreading the good word of Charcuterie and
saving the family farm”.
How did he make it in the restaurant business? Not only has
Polcyn become Nationally acclaimed in one of the toughest professions, he has
done it all in the state of Michigan, independent of cities with established taste
and demand for his skills.
Son Dylan attests that if his Dad had hauled the kids out to
New York or Chicago, he would be a star on the food network right now. Why not?
Because of the values that distinguished Polcyn from other chefs and the
sacrifices he has made throughout his life for his family.
“For me, being a chef and married to the same woman for over
30 years, and raising five children, in this profession is more of a challenge
than cooking in Michigan because the business that I’ve chosen is very
demanding. What time of day do people eat dinner? Oh, in the evening… so what
time of day do I work normally? Oh, yeah… see, I work when everyone else
plays”.
Polcyn was raising his children and decided to open a
restaurant in his hometown, giving birth to his value of local community.
Though he attempted to cut back on complexity of menu items in order to have
more time with his family, the demand in the restaurant grew to credentials
that ultimately had him written up in the New York Times, Atlantic Monthly,
nominated for a James Beard Award, Restaurant of the Year in Michigan,
showcasing his talent amidst his natural and feasible habitat: “I got
nationally recognized as a chef in that little community where I could raise my
family and just be open for dinner. I could go coach soccer practice at four
o’clock and be back at the restaurant for dinner service because it was only
five minutes away. I’m a very successful business man, very successful chef,
Nationally acclaimed, financially stable, I make a lot of money for being a
cook. That’s not bragging, that’s fact”.
Polcyn’s accomplishments are a testament to his skill and
acclaim he has built in the field, all while being a father.
“You can never know everything there is to know about food.
That’s why we say we practice
Charcuterie, the way a lawyer practices law or a doctor practices medicine,
because everything has to be interpreted differently by today’s society because
we’ve evolved”.
Polcyn hopes that new technology can bring the flavor and
qualities of his food to an on-the-go market, opening vending machines that
seal high-quality prepared meals inside plastic that can be microwaved to
inflate, and cook the meat inside in its own condensation, that will be
marketed at chain grocery stores. He equates it to a Bob Evans, but it will use
high quality ingredients.
“We’re being a pioneer. First one through the wall always
gets bloody. After I knock a hole in the wall and everyone comes behind me, its
easier for them”. Polcyn is going to break down the wall and reform our food
system.
Intended Publication: Undecided
Word Count: 1430
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